by Bob Barnwell

Boxing Room at 399 Grove at Gough only opened a few months ago in Hayes Valley but is already a success for The Absinthe Group (formerly Mad Will’s Food Company). Specializing in Southern Louisiana home-style cooking, Boxing Room recently opened for lunch. Its oyster bar is open from lunch through the afternoon and dinner. Housed in the former Standards Shirt Company building, Boxing Room is named for its location in the room where shirts were boxed and shipped. Now owning four locations in Hayes Valley The Absinthe Group is known for its top ten San Francisco restaurant rated Absinthe Brasserie & Bar at 398 Hayes. Next door is a private event dining room sharing a wall with Arlequin Cafe and Arlequin Wine Merchant at 384 A-B Hayes. That is a pretty impressive north side of Hayes between Franklin and Gough. Behind all of them on Ivy is the bakery that supplies all pastry for the Absinthe Group family of restaurants. Bill Corbett, Pastry Chef of The Absinthe Group was recently named by San Francisco Magazine as Best Pastry Chef of 2011.

Justin Simoneaux is the Executive Chef at Boxing Room. A Louisiana native, Justin was a 2009 Chronicle Rising Star. Boxing Room showcases Simoneaux’s Cajun/Creole flavors and techniques. People love the specialty items on the menu including deep-fried alligator, hushpuppies, crispy boudin balls, fried seafood po’boy and fried chicken. The gumbos and stews are also crowd pleasers. Behind the oyster bar is a large bulletin board listing specialty beers. Boxing Room’s beer and wine list benefits from the thirteen years that Absinthe has been in business and the talents of wine director, Ian Becker, winning awards including the Wine Spectator 2011 Best of Award of Excellence. Boxing Room is open for lunch from 11:30 to 3 and dinner starts at 5 in the evening.

Billy Russell-Shapiro and his family own The Absinthe Group. With almost 200 employees in Hayes Valley alone (230 total with a private label packaging plant in Auburn), The Absinthe Group is one of the largest employers in the neighborhood. The Russell-Shapiro’s are well known for their philanthropic support of arts and culture in San Francisco. Many HVNA members know The Absinthe Group for its support of local arts such as the Symphony and the Conservatory of Music. Since the 1990’s members of The Absinthe Group have provided food for HVNA meetings and events such as the “Taste of Hayes”. They have also supported auctions and silent auctions at community fund raising events. Boxing Room, with Chef Justin Simoneaux and GM Zach Pacheco, is a great addition to Hayes Valley and we look forward to enjoying the good vibes, food and drink at 399 Grove.

By Jarrod Shappell

I’ve never been very good at whispering. Any environment that asks me to lower my voice, I tend to avoid. Odd then that I have fallen in love with a tea lounge.

Upon entering Taste Tea, owner Rebecca leaned over the ornate counter, past the case full of colorful pastries and in a gentle tone said, “Welcome. May I help you find a tea that you will enjoy?” Her warm personality and interest in my personal taste exemplifies the heart of this new Hayes Valley tea lounge.

On the wall hang an assortment of teas. All of their tea selection is imported from China. Like other tea lounges here in the city, they have oolong, green, red, black, and herbal teas. While teas like the chilled Chrysanthemum and their fully fermented black tea are unique, what sets Taste apart is their service and ambiance.

After you select your tea you can have it served Gaiwan style ($8) or Gong fu style ($18). Gong fu translates as “tea with effort” and the assortment of mahogany tools allow it to be just that. The tea is served on a bamboo tray that makes for a beautiful and classic presentation. As the tray arrives a staff member takes you through the intricacies of the process. Rebecca was helpful in describing the tools and techniques for my tea of choice. My tea, the Big Red Robe, was full bodied with almost no bitterness. A perfect match for my palate.

As I continued to prepare and pour my tea, I quickly lost track of time. The music is peaceful and the attention paid to the brewing process allows you to come in and out of conversation or meditation. One of the few things that interrupted my zen-like state was Rebecca’s kind delivery of more hot water.

All of the art work, decor, and branding shows that the owners have an eye for detail. One of my favorite details is the large window seats.

These couch covered window seats can easily fit four people. A small sign invites you to remove your shoes, and so if you were not comfortable enough already, you begin to feel at home.

Settled in, the glass case calls to you with homemade mini green tea macaroons, an assortment of steamed buns, and exotic fruits such as mangosteen and lychee. They plan to keep the treats both affordable and seasonal. My favorite so far is the Red Bean Bun. The simple wheat dough is light and warm and the sweet red bean paste brings a great balance to this affordable tea accompaniment.

On Octavia Boulevard (535), one block north of Hayes Street, Taste Tea is open from 11am to 7pm, Monday through Sunday.

I have no doubt that news of Taste Tea will travel fast, even if it has to be whispered.