By Jarrod Shappell

There are strong points of connection between New York and San Francisco. Our beautiful parks, walkable streets, and love for the arts to name a few. One thing that we do not have in common is our style of food. A new Hayes Valley restaurant is trying to change that.

The new Dobbs Ferry Restaurant, located on Hayes and Gough, is making a self-described attempt at “West Coast food and East Coast style with an ‘old world’ feel.” This description brings to mind the Beach Boys sipping martinis while eating at Katz’s Deli. Suffice it to say that Dobbs Ferry is doing a much better job at bringing these two worlds together.

Upon entering the building the lounge greets you with exposed brick and candle lit, dark wood tables. Just a few steps past the lounge reveals an entire dining room with seating flexible enough to seat your next large reservation. Settling down in the lounge, I found the cocktail list to be unpretentious and straightforward. I ordered the Humdinger and enjoyed the easy to drink cardamom taste.

Being quite hungry we began with the pizza frites. The crunchy flat bread was served on top of a marinara sauce that reminded me of my childhood. Conversely we ordered the fried pumpkin dish consisting of gourd, battered and fried, stacked on top of a bed of frisèe, goat cheese, and cinnamon honey.  These appetizers showed the commitment to seasonal Bay Area ingredients as well as the nostalgic flavors of the East Coast.

For entrees we ordered the pizza and the flank steak (which can be ordered “family style”). The pepper and sausage pizza’s thin crust was perfectly charred on the bottom and gave my pallet quite a kick. The steak was perfectly cooked, sliced thin and was served with a potato gratin. This gratin is more than a side dish! Its rich flavor and delicate texture made me want to order an entire plate of it during my next visit. I will also be sure to visit again so that I can try the East Coast inspired veal marsala and sturgeon.

Dobbs Ferry is a great team effort. Executive Chef Mike Yakura has accomplished the difficult task of creating a menu that is both accessible and refined. Owners Scott Broccoli and Danny Sterling (who hail from the town of Dobbs Ferry located in Westchester County, NY) have done an excellent job with the space and with the staff. Our server was attentive throughout the evening and made a wonderful suggestion that we end with a beignet dessert. The pillowy dough is served with caramelized apples and house made soft serve ice cream. I am not sure which Coast this dessert belongs to, but I hope it doesn’t leave ours.

By Murrey Nelson

As a Francophile, I am generally delighted with all things French…film, food, wine…you name it.  Imagine the thrill of hearing that a real French épicerie had opened right here in Hayes Valley, at 141 Gough Street between Oak and Lily.

Featuring specialty items such as foie gras, exotic mustards, truffle butter, duck confit and macarons to die for, Gourmet & More is a charming little shop opened by proprietors Josiane and Laurent Recollon.  Josiane is originally from Paris and Laurent from Brittany, but they have been in the Bay Area for many years, working and raising their family here.  Laurent was in sales in the food business for a number of years, but six years ago they decided to open their own specialty wholesale business as purveyors of fine French gourmet goods to restaurants.  Trying their hand at retail through a couple of “open warehouse” sales, they knew they had to get into it on a permanent basis and began looking for a space.

As happens with many of our local businesses, Josiane and Laurent did not so much choose Hayes Valley as Hayes Valley chose them.  They didn’t necessarily want to be in a high rent district where the risk is greater, and they wanted to be a real destination for chefs and foodies alike.  That being said, their space required quite a lot of work, rewiring and revamping.  Once the space was largely complete, they took a sourcing trip to France where they stocked up on gastronomic delights along with the original French signs that whimsically adorn the shop.

Certainly the pièce de résistence of the store is the climate-controlled cheese room in the back, where Laurent often holds court, suggesting cheeses to fit any menu or palette and offering tastes to anyone who inquires.  Gourmet & More found a natural audience in the faculty and families of the French American School right across the street, but Josiane confirms that more and more locals are coming in and she is getting to know many neighbors and their culinary preferences.  Word of mouth has been great for their business.

The Recollons want their customers to enjoy the experience of shopping at Gourmet & More, so they go the extra mile in creating a quality shopping trip.  Last in line to pay for your goodies?  Enjoy a complimentary espresso while you wait.  Getting hungry while shopping?  Purchase a lunch combo, featuring a traditional French sandwich, chips, sparkling lemonade and something to satisfy your sweet tooth.  Coming soon will be a sheltered terrace in back of the store, where you will be able to enjoy the aforementioned lunch or a cheese tray selection.

Gourmet & More is open Monday through Saturday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm, and on Sunday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm.  Stop by and welcome Josiane and Laurent to the neighborhood.  You will not leave empty-handed.

By Jarrod Shappell

The first time that I went to Nojo, I couldn’t get a table. Hayes Valley’s newest Japanese restaurant has been bustling since its opening over five months ago. Thankfully I am persistent, and I savored one of my favorite meals in recent memory.

While distinctly Japanese, Gregory Dunmore’s Hayes Valley restaurant is not pretentious and is very hospitable. After a short wait we sat down at our table. The attentive server introduced us to the menu and told us to “take our time” and “order a lot of things.” We did not argue.

The menu is vast and everything sounds delicious. While the menu is primarily organized into two categories (“on a stick” and “not on a stick”) words like shungiku and nameko were unfamiliar to me. Confused and knowing that we needed to “order a lot of things”, my eyes wandered the restaurant. The table next to us had the tempura vegetables and appeared to love them. Other dishes passed by and I inched up out of my chair to get a look or smell of what was coming out of the busy kitchen.

The kitchen is one of the unique features of Nojo. As we looked toward the kitchen we could see dishes being prepared and passed to servers. There is almost no separation from the dining area to the seating area. It makes you feel like you have a back stage pass for a culinary performance.

And what a performance it was. We started with the tataki – a melt in your mouth tuna that was not too fishy and was served with fresh tomatoes and thinly sliced radishes. This was no opening act, it was a delicious first course that was both authentically Japanese and Californian. Then we had the bacon wrapped cherry tomatoes with lettuce sauce. They were decadent and disappeared off my plate in seconds.

Before I continue, I must warn you that the Nojo menu is seasonal and thus these items may or may not be available. I just thought you should know.

Then we had the almond pork rice balls. They were crisp on the outside, warm and comforting inside, and served with just enough miso mustard to add some bite. We also had the tsukune with egg yolk sauce (on a stick). It was very moist on the inside and perfectly balanced with a small amount of the subtly sweet sauce.

All the while our servers were very helpful and right on target in helping us choose sakes that were to our taste.

We couldn’t miss dessert, and as suggested, ordered a lot of it. The Nojo sundae is constructed with sesame ice cream, thunder crackers (imagine a rice krispie treat and granola hybrid) and fresh berries. Although a sundae, it was light and not too sweet. We also ordered the red miso poached peach. The homemade mochi was perfect in texture and a great complement to the peaches. Both desserts were excellent.

From start to finish, Nojo is worth the wait. Hayes Valley should be proud to have such a local, authentic Japanese dinner experience.

by Bob Barnwell

Boxing Room at 399 Grove at Gough only opened a few months ago in Hayes Valley but is already a success for The Absinthe Group (formerly Mad Will’s Food Company). Specializing in Southern Louisiana home-style cooking, Boxing Room recently opened for lunch. Its oyster bar is open from lunch through the afternoon and dinner. Housed in the former Standards Shirt Company building, Boxing Room is named for its location in the room where shirts were boxed and shipped. Now owning four locations in Hayes Valley The Absinthe Group is known for its top ten San Francisco restaurant rated Absinthe Brasserie & Bar at 398 Hayes. Next door is a private event dining room sharing a wall with Arlequin Cafe and Arlequin Wine Merchant at 384 A-B Hayes. That is a pretty impressive north side of Hayes between Franklin and Gough. Behind all of them on Ivy is the bakery that supplies all pastry for the Absinthe Group family of restaurants. Bill Corbett, Pastry Chef of The Absinthe Group was recently named by San Francisco Magazine as Best Pastry Chef of 2011.

Justin Simoneaux is the Executive Chef at Boxing Room. A Louisiana native, Justin was a 2009 Chronicle Rising Star. Boxing Room showcases Simoneaux’s Cajun/Creole flavors and techniques. People love the specialty items on the menu including deep-fried alligator, hushpuppies, crispy boudin balls, fried seafood po’boy and fried chicken. The gumbos and stews are also crowd pleasers. Behind the oyster bar is a large bulletin board listing specialty beers. Boxing Room’s beer and wine list benefits from the thirteen years that Absinthe has been in business and the talents of wine director, Ian Becker, winning awards including the Wine Spectator 2011 Best of Award of Excellence. Boxing Room is open for lunch from 11:30 to 3 and dinner starts at 5 in the evening.

Billy Russell-Shapiro and his family own The Absinthe Group. With almost 200 employees in Hayes Valley alone (230 total with a private label packaging plant in Auburn), The Absinthe Group is one of the largest employers in the neighborhood. The Russell-Shapiro’s are well known for their philanthropic support of arts and culture in San Francisco. Many HVNA members know The Absinthe Group for its support of local arts such as the Symphony and the Conservatory of Music. Since the 1990’s members of The Absinthe Group have provided food for HVNA meetings and events such as the “Taste of Hayes”. They have also supported auctions and silent auctions at community fund raising events. Boxing Room, with Chef Justin Simoneaux and GM Zach Pacheco, is a great addition to Hayes Valley and we look forward to enjoying the good vibes, food and drink at 399 Grove.

By Jarrod Shappell

I’ve never been very good at whispering. Any environment that asks me to lower my voice, I tend to avoid. Odd then that I have fallen in love with a tea lounge.

Upon entering Taste Tea, owner Rebecca leaned over the ornate counter, past the case full of colorful pastries and in a gentle tone said, “Welcome. May I help you find a tea that you will enjoy?” Her warm personality and interest in my personal taste exemplifies the heart of this new Hayes Valley tea lounge.

On the wall hang an assortment of teas. All of their tea selection is imported from China. Like other tea lounges here in the city, they have oolong, green, red, black, and herbal teas. While teas like the chilled Chrysanthemum and their fully fermented black tea are unique, what sets Taste apart is their service and ambiance.

After you select your tea you can have it served Gaiwan style ($8) or Gong fu style ($18). Gong fu translates as “tea with effort” and the assortment of mahogany tools allow it to be just that. The tea is served on a bamboo tray that makes for a beautiful and classic presentation. As the tray arrives a staff member takes you through the intricacies of the process. Rebecca was helpful in describing the tools and techniques for my tea of choice. My tea, the Big Red Robe, was full bodied with almost no bitterness. A perfect match for my palate.

As I continued to prepare and pour my tea, I quickly lost track of time. The music is peaceful and the attention paid to the brewing process allows you to come in and out of conversation or meditation. One of the few things that interrupted my zen-like state was Rebecca’s kind delivery of more hot water.

All of the art work, decor, and branding shows that the owners have an eye for detail. One of my favorite details is the large window seats.

These couch covered window seats can easily fit four people. A small sign invites you to remove your shoes, and so if you were not comfortable enough already, you begin to feel at home.

Settled in, the glass case calls to you with homemade mini green tea macaroons, an assortment of steamed buns, and exotic fruits such as mangosteen and lychee. They plan to keep the treats both affordable and seasonal. My favorite so far is the Red Bean Bun. The simple wheat dough is light and warm and the sweet red bean paste brings a great balance to this affordable tea accompaniment.

On Octavia Boulevard (535), one block north of Hayes Street, Taste Tea is open from 11am to 7pm, Monday through Sunday.

I have no doubt that news of Taste Tea will travel fast, even if it has to be whispered.